Axel Foley: Gimme the key! I'm gonna follow 'em!
Jenny Summers: Have you ever driven a Mercedes before?
Axel Foley: No, but a car is a car. I drive my car every day.
Jenny Summers: I'm driving. I've seen your car.
Axel Foley: Oh, shit, that's cold.
Rusty and masked.
I wanted to reveal the rusty spots under the blue top coat, so I tried to spray only those areas with hairspray. The entire roof is masked because that'll be white.
The blue craft paint I got is very close to the body colour of the car in the movie, but it's just a tad too dark. I'm counting on the chalk weathering to lighten things up.
Washed and detailed.
I used a black panel line wash over all the elements of the interior and the wheel hubs to darken the blue. Because I didn't clear coat these parts, the wash bled a bit here and there as it dried, but that just adds to the weathered look well enough, so I don't mind.
While this Revell kit has lots more detail than the "official" Beverly Hills Cop kit from AMT, this model comes with a floor-mounted standard transmission gear-shifter, not one on the steering column (automatic transmission) like in the movie. I only realized this after installing the shifter and didn't feel like ripping it out and scratch-building a new one. Sometimes modelling is about how much accuracy I feel is reasonable/doable and how much inaccuracy I'm willing to tolerate. Sometimes "close enough" is enough.
This is the result of the hairspray technique to reveal the rust under the top coat. It looks pretty good and there's a very slight dimensional quality where you can definitely see there's a layer of paint on top of the rust (as opposed to painting rust over top of the blue) which adds to the realism.
I took a lot of shots of the interior because once the body is attached, many of these details will be very difficult to see or even never be seen again. The backseat is where you can really see the black wash bleeding I mentioned earlier –but it looks okay for this particular project; on a cleaner/newer car I'd give it a clear gloss coat first.
There's that pesky shifter!
Also, I guess I should have painted that floor mat (visible behind the steering wheel). A black rubber look with some mud and dust weathering would have been nice. Too late!
View from the backseat.
They're there: painted and detailed, but you'll hardly be able to see them once the body goes on.
As nice as this kit is, I'm surprised at how close everything inside is. With the steering wheel so very close to the front seat cushion, and the back seat cushion so very close to the backs of the front seat backs, there's no room for anyone's legs! I assembled everything correctly; things are just very close together...
Axel's car had oval speakers on the back deck under the rear window and I was going to scratch-build a pair, but then I found a couple of box covers from one of my tank donor kits that seemed like a good size (if a little square-ish).
That's mostly black primer with some titanium silver for the drive shaft, exhaust pipes, and a bit of dry brushing here and there. The stains were made with black panel line wash.
I used hull red, orange, and yellow in various from-the-bottle and watered-down forms in semi-strategic areas to give it a random, rusty look (this car, presumably, would have seen many Detroit winters). Then I used some chalk pastel all over the place for that extra dusty look. I secured the pastel with a spray of clear dull coat, then added more chalk. Spraying clear coat tends to nullify much of the chalk dust, so I repeated this until I was satisfied.
Interior and wheels.
The wheel hubs are nicely detailed and I'm glad Axel's car was missing its right rear hubcap to be able to show this. I assembled, painted, and weathered the tires separately and then attached them after I attached the interior to the chassis. Note the "speakers" on the rear deck.
Like a stripped-down hot rod!
Things sure look more realistic if they're weathered; most cars stay showroom fresh only for a very short time, and dust and rust buildup is inevitable. I added some extra "oil stains" with the black wash over top of the chalk dust to really stand out. Of course, this kit has very excellent detail to help promote the high level of realism I enjoy and try to achieve (even though the underside will very rarely –or never– be seen again).
I didn't think the copyright markings (top and top right) would bother me (like I said: how often will the underside be seen, anyway?) but I eventually filed them off and re-weathered and re-painted those areas.
Seams like a good idea.
To make the seams of the vinyl roof, I placed strips of masking tape, two layers thick, in the appropriate areas (to make two long seams on top and two short ones on the front posts), then filled that tiny gap with putty.
At bottom left you can sorta see where I used the same tape-and-putty technique to create the "metal strips" where the "vinyl" meets the body, and they'll be painted chrome silver when I do the rest of the trim.
The "vinyl" roof.
After removing the tape I had more or less in-scale seams (although the edges toward the middle of the roof should be lower than the outside edges as that centre panel overlaps the two outside panels), but it's close enough and looks pretty good painted and weathered.
I used buff acrylic paint for the mud stains and lots of chalk pastel for the dust. I initially overdid it on the brown dust in the seams of the roof, and I had to take it down quite a bit with some watered down white paint to get it back to a more screen accurate level. The windows got a quick shot of dull coat before installation.
The side reflectors are decals as are the "Nova" markings (which go over raised "Nova" details on the sides and back) and the long stripe which is supposed to be a moulding. The side mouldings in the movie are black with a silver outline, but the kit only came with black, grey, and white outline options which all have openings that reveal the body colour in the middle. I suppose I could have masked off the (very thin) stripes, painted them black, then applied the white decals...but close enough is good enough.
There were also decals for the keyholes also, but I decided to paint them chrome silver and applied a touch of black wash.
The back window is overly foggy because I sprayed the inside accidentally, so the inside surface was dull but the outside was shiny! Which is the opposite of what I wanted. Removing the fogging from the inside would be too much work (if at all possible) so now it's extra dusty.
I'm fairly happy with my denting, painting, and weathering to get it as close to the car in the movie (and look as realistic) as possible.
I masked off the appropriate arcs of the wipers, but accidentally inverted the bottom one. It's a stupid mistake and it's glaring at me whenever I look at the windshield. Bah! Curse my temporary inattentiveness! This is definitely a case where "close enough" is not good enough! But it's irreparable, so I have to live with it.
Now to attach the body to the chassis and get some nice beauty shots...
Now to attach the body to the chassis and get some nice beauty shots...
Back to PART ONE
Final assembly in